Natural and Synthetic Textiles

Where Fibres Come From

Every textile begins with a fibre. Fibres are classified by their origin: natural fibres come from animals, insects or plants; synthetic fibres are manufactured from petrochemical or cellulose-based polymers. Understanding the source of a fibre is the first step in predicting its properties—animal and insect fibres have a protein structure; plant fibres have a cellulose structure; synthetic fibres are engineered, which means their properties can be designed for a specific performance target.

Animal and Insect Fibres

Animal and insect fibres are protein-based. The primary animal fibres the specification names are:

• Wool—from sheep. The microscopic scales on each wool fibre interlock when agitated in warm water, causing shrinkage and felting. Wool is naturally fire-resistant (it chars rather than melts and self-extinguishes), an excellent insulator, and absorbs up to 30% of its weight in moisture vapour before feeling wet. Used in knitwear, suits and blankets.
• Cashmere—from the fine undercoat of Kashmiri goats. Exceptionally soft and lightweight, with superior insulating properties. Significantly more expensive than standard wool due to the small yield per animal (typically 150–200 g per goat per year). Used in luxury knitwear and scarves.
• Mohair—from Angora goats. Long, lustrous, fine fibres with a silky appearance and high sheen. Resilient (springs back quickly) and durable compared with other luxury fibres. Used in high-end knitwear, suiting and upholstery.
• Angora—from Angora rabbits (not goats; the name is shared but the animal differs). Extremely fine, lightweight and fluffy. Poorly resilient—the fibres tend to shed and pill with wear. Often blended with wool to improve durability while retaining softness.
• Alpaca—from alpacas. Similar to wool in structure but lacks the irritating scales that cause wool to feel scratchy against sensitive skin. Hypoallergenic, warm and lustrous. Used in outdoor clothing and knitwear.
• Silk—from the cocoon of the silkworm (Bombyx mori). The silkworm spins a continuous filament up to 900 metres long. Silk is strong, lustrous, naturally temperature-regulating (warm in cool conditions, cool in warm conditions) and extremely fine. Used in luxury clothing, ties and parachute fabric historically. High cost reflects the labour-intensive reeling process.

Plant Fibres

Plant fibres are cellulose-based and include:

• Cotton—from the seed pod of the cotton plant. The most widely used natural fibre globally. Soft, breathable and highly absorbent (can hold up to 27 times its weight in water). Cotton is easy to wash and dye. Weaknesses: low elasticity (it creases easily), shrinks in hot water, and conventional cotton farming uses large amounts of pesticides and water. Organic cotton addresses some environmental concerns.
• Linen (flax)—from the stem of the flax plant. Stronger than cotton when wet, with low elasticity (prone to creasing). Naturally cool to the touch because of its high thermal conductivity. Used in summer clothing, tablecloths and bedding.
• Hemp—from the cannabis plant stem. Very strong and durable with natural antibacterial properties. Requires minimal pesticides. Coarser than cotton but becoming increasingly popular in sustainable fashion as processing techniques improve.
• Jute—a coarse plant fibre used for sacking, hessian and rope. Biodegradable and inexpensive, but low durability in comparison to other natural fibres.

Regenerated and Synthetic Fibres

Rayon / viscose—regenerated fibres made by dissolving cellulose (wood pulp) and extruding it through fine holes to form filaments. Viscose has a soft, silky feel and drapes well. It is not synthetic in the strict sense (the raw material is natural cellulose) but the manufacturing process is wholly industrial. Tencel (Lyocell) is a more environmentally responsible regenerated cellulose fibre—the closed-loop Lyocell process recovers over 99% of the solvent, making it significantly more sustainable than conventional viscose.

Fully synthetic fibres are manufactured from petrochemical polymers:

• Polyester—the most widely used synthetic fibre. Strong, quick-drying, wrinkle-resistant and retains shape well. Low moisture absorption (dries quickly but may feel clammy in hot conditions). Used in outdoor clothing, sportswear and most woven fabrics in blended yarns.
• Nylon—the first fully synthetic fibre. Extremely strong and abrasion-resistant. Used in hosiery, ropes, parachutes and sportswear. Low moisture absorption.
• Acrylic—designed to mimic wool. Lightweight, warm and soft. Less expensive than wool; machine washable. Weaker wet strength and pills more readily than wool. Used in knitwear, fleece and craft yarn.
• Elastane (Lycra)—a segmented polyurethane fibre with exceptional elasticity—it can stretch up to five times its resting length and fully recover. Always used blended (typically 2–20% in a fabric) because pure elastane fabric does not hold shape. Used in sportswear, swimwear and stretch denim.
• Aramid—a high-performance synthetic (e.g. Kevlar and Nomex). Extremely high tensile strength and heat resistance. Used in body armour, fire-protective clothing and aerospace applications. Far more expensive than everyday synthetics.
• Tactel—a branded form of nylon microfibre developed by Invista. Softer, lighter and more breathable than standard nylon. Used in sportswear, lingerie and outdoor technical clothing.