Domestic Uses of Electricity & Power
Energy Transferred by Electrical Devices
Every electrical device transfers energy from one store to another. A kettle transfers energy from the electrical store to the thermal store of water. A motor transfers energy from the electrical store to the kinetic store. Understanding how much energy a device transfers — and how quickly — is essential for calculating running costs and choosing appropriate safety features.
The energy transferred by a device depends on three things: the current flowing through it, the potential difference across it, and how long it runs for. These are linked by the equation:
$$E = I \times V \times t$$
where \(E\) is energy transferred in joules (J), \(I\) is current in amperes (A), \(V\) is potential difference in volts (V), and \(t\) is time in seconds (s). For example, a heater drawing 10 A at 230 V for 60 seconds transfers \(10 \times 230 \times 60 = 138{,}000\) J of energy.
Energy transferred (J) = current (A) × potential difference (V) × time (s). Edexcel gives this equation on the formulae sheet, so you need to select it and use it, not memorise it.
Electrical Power
Power tells you how fast a device transfers energy. It is measured in watts (W), where one watt equals one joule of energy transferred per second. A 2000 W kettle transfers 2000 J every second — much faster than a 60 W lamp, which transfers only 60 J per second.
Power is calculated using:
$$P = \frac{E}{t}$$
where \(P\) is power in watts (W), \(E\) is energy transferred in joules (J), and \(t\) is time in seconds (s).
Two more equations link power to current, potential difference, and resistance:
$$P = I \times V$$
$$P = I^2 \times R$$
The second equation shows that doubling the current quadruples the power dissipated, because current is squared. This is why high-current devices need thicker cables — thin wires carrying large currents would overheat dangerously.
Three key power equations: \(P = \frac{E}{t}\), \(P = I \times V\), and \(P = I^2 \times R\). Each connects power to different electrical quantities.
Direct Current and Alternating Current
There are two types of electric current. Direct current (d.c.) is the movement of charge in one direction only. Cells and batteries supply d.c. — the current always flows from the positive terminal, through the circuit, and back to the negative terminal.
Alternating current (a.c.) is different: the direction of charge flow keeps reversing. In the UK, the mains electricity supply is a.c. at a frequency of 50 Hz. That means 50 complete cycles each second, so the current changes direction 100 times a second. The supply voltage is about 230 V.
Alternating current can be easily stepped up to very high voltages for efficient long-distance transmission through the National Grid, then stepped back down for safe domestic use. Transformers, which only work with a.c., make this possible. Direct current cannot be transformed in the same way, which is why a.c. became the standard for mains supply.
The Three-Pin Plug and Mains Wiring
Domestic appliances connect to the mains through a three-pin plug containing three colour-coded wires:
The live wire (brown) carries the alternating current to the appliance. Its potential alternates between about +230 V and −230 V relative to the neutral wire. This makes it dangerous even when a device is switched off — the live wire is still connected to the supply.
The neutral wire (blue) completes the circuit and carries current away from the appliance. It is at, or very close to, 0 V (earth potential).
The earth wire (green and yellow stripes) is a safety wire connected to the metal casing of an appliance. Under normal conditions, no current flows through it. If a fault occurs and the live wire touches the metal casing, the earth wire provides a low-resistance path for current to flow safely to earth, preventing electrocution.
Live wire = brown (alternates at ~230 V). Neutral wire = blue (~0 V). Earth wire = green and yellow (safety, connected to metal casing). The potential difference between live and neutral is about 230 V. Between live and earth it is also about 230 V. Between neutral and earth it is approximately 0 V.
Fuses and Circuit Breakers
A fuse is a thin wire inside a ceramic or glass case, placed in series with the live wire. If the current exceeds the fuse's rated value, the wire melts and breaks the circuit, cutting off the current before it can cause a fire or damage the appliance. Common fuse ratings are 3 A (for appliances up to about 700 W) and 13 A (for higher-power devices).
Fuses and switches must always be connected in the live wire, not the neutral wire. This ensures that when the fuse blows or the switch is off, no high voltage reaches the appliance — making it safe to touch or repair.
A circuit breaker does the same job but works faster and can be reset by flipping a switch, rather than needing to be replaced like a fuse.
If the fuse were in the neutral wire and it blew, the live wire would still be connected to the appliance. The metal casing could remain at 230 V, creating a serious electrocution risk. By placing the fuse in the live wire, blowing the fuse disconnects the high-voltage supply completely.
Power Ratings and Energy Use
Every domestic appliance has a power rating printed on it. A 2000 W kettle uses energy much faster than a 10 W LED bulb. Higher power means greater energy transfer per second, which usually means higher running costs.
Different appliances transfer energy in different ways. A toaster transfers electrical energy to thermal energy to heat bread. A washing machine transfers electrical energy to kinetic energy (the drum spinning) and thermal energy (heating the water). A television transfers electrical energy to light and sound energy.
To calculate the current drawn by an appliance, rearrange \(P = I \times V\) to give \(I = \frac{P}{V}\). For a 2000 W kettle on the 230 V mains: \(I = \frac{2000}{230} \approx 8.7\) A. This tells you a 13 A fuse is needed (the next standard rating above 8.7 A).
Calculate the normal operating current using \(I = \frac{P}{V}\), then choose the fuse with the next rating above this value. For a 600 W microwave: \(I = \frac{600}{230} \approx 2.6\) A, so a 3 A fuse is suitable. For a 2500 W heater: \(I = \frac{2500}{230} \approx 10.9\) A, so a 13 A fuse is needed. The fuse must be rated just above the normal current — too low and it blows during normal use; too high and it fails to protect.
Dangers of the Mains Supply
The mains supply at 230 V is potentially lethal. Any connection between the live wire and earth creates a direct path for current to flow through whatever — or whoever — completes that circuit. Touching the live wire while standing on the ground can cause a large current to pass through the body, which can cause burns, cardiac arrest, or death.
Even when a switch is off, the live wire inside the appliance may still be at 230 V. This is why you should always switch off and unplug an appliance before attempting any repairs, and why damaged cables or cracked plugs must be replaced immediately.
The live wire is dangerous because it carries a potential of ~230 V even when a switch is off. Any connection between live and earth can cause electrocution. Safety features include: fuses in the live wire, earth wires on metal-cased appliances, circuit breakers, and double insulation on plastic-cased devices.
When asked to explain why a fuse must be in the live wire, always state that it disconnects the high-voltage supply from the appliance. Simply saying "it breaks the circuit" is not enough — you must explain that the appliance is no longer connected to 230 V.
Summary
Electrical power is the rate of energy transfer, measured in watts. The UK mains supply is a.c. at 230 V and 50 Hz. Domestic plugs have three wires (live, neutral, earth) with fuses and circuit breakers providing safety. Understanding power ratings helps you calculate current draw, choose the correct fuse, and compare energy use between appliances.